Normal Route Aconcagua
Highest summit in South America
Highest summit in South America
Aconcagua is situated within the Provincial Park of Aconcagua, in
Argentina. It is surrounded by a large number of high peaks, from Mt.
Cuerno (5450m), Mt. Catedral (5200m), to Mt. Mirador (5800m) and Mt.
Ameghino (5800m), to name but a few. It was first climbed by the English
alpinist, Edward Fitzgerald, during the summer of 1897.
Every year on
average 5,400 people visit the Aconcagua Provincial Park and 3,650 try to reach the summit
via the Normal route or Polish Route eaching the summit, with about a 60% success rate. Our mountain guides
are qualified professionals of the AAGM (Argentinean Association of
Mountain Guides) and the EPGAMT (Provincial School of High Mountain and
Trekking Guides). The latter qualification takes 2 years. We believe
that to succeed in our expeditions, professionals with experience and
the ability to offer security should guide our teams.
The expeditions
are led by a mountain guide and an assistant for every 3 or 4 clients.
Their equipment includes: VHF radio, a first aid kit.
We use porters to
enable our clients to move with less weight on their way to the summit
and to keep all their energy for the day that they are going to get the
summit. For every 3 to 4 clients there will be a porter who will be in
charge of transporting the shared equipment of the expedition.
It has two summits—north and south—connected by a ridge (Cresta del Guanaco)
that is about 0.6 mile (1 km) long. The mountain is believed to have its
origins in volcanic activity, but it is not an active volcano. The most
popular ascent is via the “Normal Route,” which is a nontechnical climb. The
other option is via the Polish Route. The normal route is a shorter and
more direct route with porter support to carry group gear. It includes
acclimation days as well and less time on the higher mountain camps.
Being in the southern hemisphere, the climbing season is best from December , January and February and can be extended into March. The final day to enter the Aconcagua Provincial Park is the last day of February. Since December and January are the months with the most favorable weather, this is when most expeditions take place.
The cost of a medical evacuation from the mountain is expensive, which is why adequate travel insurance is required on all climbs booked through us. Adequate, means you must be covered for
1) Trekking or hiking – this may sound strange, but many insurance list that as an exclusion.
2) Altitude up to 6,000 meters. Most travel insurance providers do
not include this under their standard cover and often limit it to 3500m
or less.
3) Sprains strains and physiotherapy – yes, many insurers exclude
this; though ironically, this is what you will most likely need cover
for.
4) Personal accident – this is the horrible part of insurance. Yes,
you need to be covered in the case of death. We are often told by
clients – “if anything happens to me, just leave me there.” It is not
that simple.
DAY 1 – MENDOZA (760m)
Upon arrival in Mendoza, team members will enjoy the comforts of one of the best hotels in the city. At the time noted in your confirmation letter, we will host an orientation meeting. At this meeting, we will perform a comprehensive gear check, an overview of the entire climb, and answer all questions. Guides will assist you with any gear rentals or purchases, if required. For the evening, you will be free to walk the streets of Mendoza and enjoy the many great restaurants in the area (meals not included).
DAY 2 – MENDOZA / PUENTE DEL INCA (2,725m)
After registration with Aconcagua Provincial Park, we drive to Penitentes to start our acclimatization. Upon reaching Penitentes we will check in to our quaint hotel at the base of the mountain and have lunch. In the afternoon, staff will prepare the mule’s loads at our depot at Los Puquios for the following day. (B, L, D)
DAY 3 – PUENTE DEL INCA / CONFLUENCIA (3,300m)
After breakfast, we take a short drive in a private van to the entrance of the park where we will present permits and begin our 3.5-hour trek to Confluencia Camp (3,300 m). We have light backpacks and the walking is on a well-worn, picturesque trail. Upon arrival to Confluencia you will be greeted by the staff with some refreshments and a tour of camp. After a good rest, staff will set up tents and take some time to explore the surrounding area and view the beautiful rock formations. The group will spend two nights in Confluencia with full meals and hot drinks available throughout the day. It is a lovely camp and our staff is there to assist you. (B, PL, D)
DAY 4 – CONFLUENCIA / PLAZA FRANCIA (4,000m) / CONFLUENCIA
Today we trek to Plaza Francia and back to Confluencia. At Plaza Francia, we will eat lunch and view the spectacular South Face of Aconcagua while further acclimatizing. The South Face of Aconcagua is famous for its difficult ascents, where many of the best climbers in the world come to test their skills. After exploring the area, we descend back to Confluencia Camp for the night. Six to seven hours (B, PL, D)
DAY 5 – CONFLUENCIA / PLAZA DE MULAS (4,260m)
We make our way to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (seven to nine-hour trek). Guides ensure we walk at a moderate pace so everyone arrives feeling well. The trek follows the Horcones Superior River and then rises up onto a lateral moraine next to the Horcones Glacier. Upon arrival, team members can relax in the dining tent with hot drinks and snacks. Our Base Camp is a full-service camp, complete with full meals and Wi-Fi. Hot showers are available upon request. Seven to nine hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 6 – PLAZA DE MULAS
Rest day. This will be a leisure day starting with a good breakfast, and then a nice walk in the surrounding area, which has many stunning vistas. In the afternoon, we will have an orientation and then prepare our gear for the next day’s climb of Mt. Bonete at 5,100 m. (B, L, D)
DAY 7 – PLAZA DE MULAS / MT. BONETE (5,100m) / PLAZA DE MULAS
This is an exciting day as we climb Mt Bonete, 5,100 m. For many climbers, this will be their first summit over 5,000 m. From the top there are great vistas of Aconcagua and the surrounding mountains. The climb of Mt. Bonete also gives team members essential acclimatization experience, which will be necessary to climb Aconcagua. Following our climb, we will return to Plaza de Mulas and enjoy a nice evening in Base Camp. six to seven hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 8 – PLAZA DE MULAS / CAMP 1 “CANADÁ” (4,910m) / PLAZA DE MULAS
Acclimatization trek to Camp 1, or Camp Canadá. We will carry food, fuel, and other supplies to use in camps higher on the mountain. This walk begins through a field in Penitentes, with two- to five-foot tall pinnacles of ice, and then follows switchbacks that lead us steadily up to Camp Canadá. Once we reach camp, we will cache our gear, have a packed lunch, and then return to Base Camp. Three to four hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 9 – PLAZA DE MULAS
Rest and acclimatization day. On this day team members will make sure that equipment is ready and all are well-rested to make the move to a camp higher up the mountain. (B, L, D)
DAY 10 – PLAZA DE MULAS / CAMP 1 “CANADÁ”
This morning we will move to Camp Canadá. Team members will carry personal gear. Porter staff will carry sleeping tents, food, fuel and cooking gear to be used in our camps higher on the mountain. Once at Canadá, the group will enjoy lunch and set up tents. Three to four hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 11 – CAMP 1 “CANADÁ” / CAMP 2 “NIDO DE CÓNDORES” (5,250m)
Today we move from Camp Canada to our Camp 2, or “Nido de Cóndores,” where we will spend the next three nights for rest and acclimatization. On this day, each climber will be responsible for carrying personal equipment only. Porter staff will carry expedition equipment, food, and sleeping tents. After reaching Nido de Cóndores, we will set up tents with the guides and move our sleeping gear inside before settling down for the night. Guides will serve dinner in tents. three to four hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 12 – CAMP 2 “NIDO DE CÓNDORES”
Today is a rest day and an opportunity to further acclimatize and enjoy the comfort of our camp. Resting on this day will improve your performance on summit day and greatly increase your chances for successfully reaching the summit. (B, L, D)
DAY 13 – CAMP 2 “NIDO DE CÓNDORES” / CAMP 3 “CÓLERA” (6,000m)
CClimb to Camp 3, “Cólera.” We will carry our personal equipment. Porters will carry sleeping tents and group gear. At Cólera Camp, staff will strategically position the campsite for protection in case of high winds. While climbers rest, guides will check each team member’s summit gear for the next day and give an orientation on the summit climb. We will have an early dinner and go to bed to get a good night’s rest for the early morning start the next day. Three hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 14 –
CAMP 3 “CÓLERA” / SUMMIT (6,962m) / CAMP 3 “CÓLERA”
Climb from Cólera to the summit and return to Camp 3.
We will wake up early in the morning and dress for our summit attempt. Guides will serve hot drinks and a quick breakfast. They will let us know what time to leave our tents so we all rise together and start moving toward the summit. This keeps us warm and moving together as a team. The climb is gradual as we follow switchbacks for two hours until we reach a small A-frame hut called “Independencia.” From here we will traverse across the North Face of Aconcagua until we reach the Canaleta, a low-angle gully that leads us up towards the summit ridge. As we ascend the Canaleta, we can look down on the surrounding mountains, which begin to drop away from as we go higher. A few hundred meters below the summit, the route traverses east and leads us directly the summit! A cross proudly stands on top to mark the summit. There is plenty of room for everybody to take personal and group photos. It is a time for celebration! Time of day and the weather often determine the amount of time we spend on the summit. After we’ve all taken photos and absorbed the views, we will begin our descent back to Cólera Camp. eight to twelve hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 15 – CAMP 3 “CÓLERA”/ PLAZA DE MULAS
We head down to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. We will take our time moving downhill with our climbing equipment and personal gear. Porters will carry sleeping tents and human waste. Once in Plaza de Mulas, the group will have the rest of the day free to celebrate our climbing experience and enjoy a great meal. Four hours. (B, PL, D)
DAY 16 – PLAZA DE MULAS / HORCONES / MENDOZA
We descend to Horcones, the entrance to the Park, on the last trekking day of the expedition. Mules will carry belongings so team members will only take light backpacks with jackets and packed lunches. Transfer to Mendoza City. Lodge in the hotel. Guides and climbers often get together for dinner to celebrate the climb. Six to seven hours. (B, PL) (Mendoza dinner not included)
DAY 17 – MENDOZA
Breakfast. End of services. (B)
DAY 18 – EXTRA DAY
Extra day for weather.
DAY 19 – EXTRA DAY
Extra day for weather.
NOTE: THE ABOVE ITINERARY IS INTENDED AS A GUIDELINE ONLY. ALTHOUGH EVERY EFFORT WILL BE MADE TO ADHERE TO IT, CHANGES MAY BE CAUSED DUE TO WEATHER CONDITIONS, TRANSPORT FAILURE, OR OTHER UNFORESEEN EVENTS. PLEASE BE FLEXIBLE IF NECESSARY.
End of services