NOMADIC
ADVENTURES

MERA peak AMPHU LAPCHA climb 

Mera Peak is considered a good opportunity for advanced beginner and intermediate climbers to take on a challenging climb above 20,000 feet .Amphu Lapcha, is also known of Amphu Labtsa pass but requires a high level of technical expertise

Mera Peak Climb 

Mera Peak is located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area of the Mount Everest region rarely frequented by trekkers. There are many approaches to Mera Peak; some are 'easier' and some require crossing high and difficult passes.

Mera Peak, along with some other peaks in Nepal, is defined by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) as a Trekking Peak. Unfortunately, this has led many to believe that there is no difficulty involved. This is not the case. Anything involving the use of ropes, crampons, climbing gear, climbing skill, snow gullies etc can cause difficulty, even for just for one day.

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, and can be climbed by people without any prior technical or mountaineering experience. Most groups can reach the summit and return to base in one day, though we can set up a high camp at around 5,800m to make the summit day shorter.

Mera Peak is higher than Island Peak but in terms of technical work, easier to climb. However, the trek TO Mera Peak is tougher than the trek to Island Peak.

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal at 6654m. 
                                  
Optional Amphu Lapcha/ Amphu Labtsa variation
This expedition combines climbing Mera Peak with a return via the incredible Amphu Lapcha pass. Mera Peak is located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area rarely frequented by trekkers or visitors. This expedition combines This is one of the highest and most technical passes.

NOTE
It is possible that during the upcoming season (Sept to Nov of 2022) all Lukla flights will be flying from Ramecchap instead of Kathmandu. As of this time we have not received any update from the Nepal Aviation Authority and would not expect one until sometime in August.

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best time to climb

The hike can be done throughout the year, however, Autumn (Sep - Nov) is often considered to be the best season for hiking in Nepal with a great climate and several festivals. although it is a little colder than Spring, the skies tend to be much clearer. Spring, (March - May) is the next favourite and also main summit season for Mt Everest. During spring time, the Khumbu valley erupts with beautiful rhododendron flowers. June to August is monsoon season so the route is quiet. During November and December it is cold but again, some travelers find it worth visiting during this period, as there are fewer tourists. 

travel insurance

The cost of a medical evacuation from the mountain is expensive, which is why adequate travel insurance  is required on all climbs booked through us. Adequate, means you must be covered for 1) Trekking or hiking – this may sound strange, but many insurance list that as an exclusion. 
2) Altitude up to 6,000 meters. Most travel insurance providers do not include this under their standard cover and often limit it to 3500m or less. 
3) Sprains strains and physiotherapy – yes, many insurers exclude this; though ironically, this is what you will most likely need cover for. 
4) Personal accident – this is the horrible part of insurance. Yes, you need to be covered in the case of death. We are often told by clients – “if anything happens to me, just leave me there.” It is not that simple. 

https://www.nomadicadventures.co.za/Travel-Insurance.html

AMPHU LAPCHA

After completing the summit of Mera Peak the route then follows:
Day-17: Hongu Valley 
Day-18: Panch Pokhari - 5400m. Day-19: Acclimatisation 
Day-20: Amphu Lapcha Crossing - Chukkung. 
Day-21: Deboche 3710m 
Day-22: Namche Bazaar (3440m). 
Day-23:Lukla 
Day-24:Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m). 
Day-25: Free at leisure 
Day-26: Departure. 

Amphu Lapcha is a very technical pass to Chukkung Valley. The crossing of the pass requires the use of technical climbing equipment and trekkers must be skilled in the use of this and be prepared. 

Amphu Lapcha Mera Peak Climb Overview

Day-1: Arrive Kathmandu
 Day-2: Guided Sightseeing in Kathmandu 
Day-3: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m) 
Day-4: Lukla to Chutanga 
Day-5: Chutanga Day-6: Zatwra La Crossing (4320m) 
Day-7: Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Khote (3600m) 
Day-8: Trek to Tagnag(4350m) 
Day-9: Acclimatisation 
Day-10: Acclimatisation at Tagnag. 
Day-11: Trek to Khare (5100m) 
Day-12: Rest / Exploration for acclimatisation 
Day-13: Trek to Mera La (5400m) 
Day-14: Acclimatisation 
Day-15: Continue to High Camp (5800m) 
Day-16: Climb Mera Peak (6,654 m)                    
Day-17: Hongu Valley Day-18: Panch Pokhari - 5400m. 
Day-19: Acclimatisation 
Day-20: Amphu Lapcha Crosssing - Chukkung. 
Day-21: Deboche 3710m 
Day-22: Namche Bazaar (3440m). 
Day-23:Lukla
Day-24:Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m)
Day-25: Free at leisure 
Day-26: Departure.                  

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MERA PEAK CLIMB ITINERARY 

Day-1: Arrival: Arrive Kathmandu

Day-2: Guided sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.

Day-3 Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m). 

We are off this morning to the airport for a great flight of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we get our first views of Everest and the region in which we'll be trekking. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, the start of  our trek to Mera. Here we meet our staff and porters  and set off straight away for our first night at camp

Day-4: Lukla to Chutanga (3,450m)

Today is a relatively easy trek, through the woodlands above Lukla. A good trail leads through pastures into a forest of rhododendron and pine which covers the steep hillsides above Lukla. After 3 hours we reach Chutanga where we camp for 2 nights t an altitude of 3450m in order to acclimatise.   

Day-5: Chutanga 

This morning we take an acclimatisation trek up to around 4000m with views over the Dudh Khosi Valley and across to Zatwra La pass. We return to Chutanga. 

Day-6: Zatwra La Crossing (4320m) 

We start on a lengthy steep 1300m ascent to Zatwra Og then a short traverse the Zatwra La pass proper. If there is a lot of snow, you will need to make use of crampons to cross. At times there is the risk of avalanches. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Tuli Kharka (which means big pasture. We camp above the Hinku valley. (4320m).

Day-7:Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Khote (3600m)

We ascend slowly passing through the jungle. We find virtually no human settlement on the trail. This will be one of our longest  treks mostly downhill. We traverse several flats and spurs until we gain our first view of Mera Peak. From here we drop down into the isolated Hinku Valley. Eventually we drop down into humid, bamboo forests, before turning north up along the west side of the Hinku River towards Mera Peak. We slowly ascend to Khote.                   

Day-8: Trek to Thangnak (4350m)

 We see amazing mountain views when we head north into the Hinku Valley. The trail gently climbs along the west bank of the Hinku River. Spectacular mountains, such as Kusum Kangari to the west and east is Mera Peak, will be in view throughout the morning.   Trekking onto the meadows on the western side of the Hinku Valley, we eventually climb above the tree line. Here we stop for lunch. Throughout the afternoon, we traverse meadows and hill slopes, dotted with grazing yaks,  until the settlement of Tangnak (4,350m, 14,268ft). If it's been a snowy season, the sound of avalanches will soon be familiar. We are approaching the heart of the high Himalaya.      

Day-9: Acclimatisation                  

We trek up above camp to around 5,000 metres for views across to Mera La and return to Tagnag.

Day-10: A second acclimatisation at Tagnag.

This is set aside for skills training particularly the techniques required for fixed lines and crevasse rescue. Camp.                   

Day-11:Trek to Khare (5100m)

 The climb takes us above 5,000 m (16,400ft). Our hike up to Khare (5,100m, 16,728ft) is short, if slowly, with frequent stops gives us time to soak up incredible surroundings. The trail heads eastward out of Tangnag, along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. We climb the moraine for a view of the pristine Sabai Tso glacial Lake.  We arrive at Khare in the early afternoon and have lunch. From Khare, the beautiful north face of Mera Peak appears in plain view and Mera glacier spills steeply down the valley.       

Day-12:Rest / Exploration for acclimatisation 

You can explore around or climb up for a few hours and come back to Base. The goal today will be do some technical training needed in preparation for moving higher on the mountain. Moving on a rope as a team is the most important part of moving on the glacier.                              

Day-13: Trek to Mera La (5400m)

Today is a short trekking distance, slowly ascending up onto Mera glacier. The climb is initially steep, but flattens out when we reach the crest of the glacier. We then traverse a long flat on top of the glacier making our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft). From here, the views are stunning. Crevasse fields gently stretch out in front of the pass and we are literally enclosed by a ring of jagged peaks and blue-green glaciers. The remaining route up to the summit of Mera Peak is clearly visible. Lunch will be at Mera La and the afternoon spent relaxing and staying warm.         


Day-14: Continue to High Camp (5800m)

A short, steep climb takes us to High camp, but we take it very slowly so that we allow for altitude gains. At 5,800 m (19,025ft), high camp is nestled behind a large rock outcrop. We arrive here by lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing and further acclimatizing  and making preparations for the next day to get to the summit.    

Day-15: Summit Mera Peak (6,654 m) 

 We climb to the summit at 21,830 ft from where the views of Pumori (7,161 m) Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,463 m), Lobuche (6,145 m) Cho Oyu (8,201 m) are spectacular. We depart high camp before dawn. The climb up to the higher northern summit is straight  forward, but will take 6-7 hours. The reward is  the world's most spectacular mountain views, including Everest and Lhotse just to the north, Cho Oyu to the northwest, and Kanchenjunga and Makalu on the eastern  side. We then make our way down to Mera La for lunch and to Khare to camp.                              

Day-16:Contingencies

Day-17: Hongu Valley 

We head up into the upper yak pastures of this incredibly remote valley. The giant flanks of Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The terrain is remarkably barren   with a wide valley floor. 

Day-18: Panch Pokhari - 5400m. 

We pass beneath the giant west face of Chamlang we follow the Hongu Khola and finally the Hongu Glacier to the holy site of Panch Pokhri (five lakes). Camp.      

Day-19: A rest day. 

The guides and Sherpas ascend the Amphu Lapcha to establish fixed lines and prepare the pass for tomorrow's crossing.  

Day-20: Amphu Lapcha Crosssing - Chukkung.

This is a long technically difficult trek. Starting from the south base of Amphu Lapcha, we start an early morning climb. The climb involves steep sections on rock and ice. It is better  to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable. We use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections to climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored  on fixed lines leading down to the moraine. We then continue down the Imja valley on the other side to the small village of Chukkung.  

Day-21: Deboche 3710m

Our descent down the valley will be long as we ascend and descend over small passes Dingboche to the main Khumbu Valley, through the village of Pangboche to tonights stop at Deboche.  

Day-22: Namche Bazaar (3440m). 

We then climb up to Tengboche where we stop for a visit to the Monastery and then descend to Pungi Tanga and climb up to Namche  Bazaar. Namche is the largest Sherpa village  and is the unofficial capital of the Khumbu, gateway to the high Himalayas. This relatively small town is a bustling tourist zone and  trading hub literally is perched on a sloping hill. It is surrounded on all sides by mountains, from Thamserku to Kongde Ri.

Day-23:Lukla

 Our final days trekking following the Dudh Khosi mostly downhill but with a last climb up to Lukla. We say goodbye to our support crew in traditional style. Overnight Lodge.   

Day-24:Flight: Lukla (2,840m) - Kathmandu (1,310m).

 Hotel Overnight (B) 

Day-25: Free at leisure   

Day-26: Final Departure.                   

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Mera Peak Frequently Asked Questions

What is a trekking peak?
‘Trekking Peaks’ describes mountains that can be attempted without prior technical climbing experience. The term is most often associated with Group "B" NMA Climbing Peaks classified by the Nepal Mountaineering Association or easier. Because of the term's loose classification of peaks it can be misleading, encompassing peaks of significant varying difficulties. Some may use the term "Trekking Peak" to solely describe peaks requiring little to no technical climbing experience.  In Nepal there are currently 15 Group "B" NMA Trekking Peaks. 

In terms of the International French adjectival system grading system, Island Peak is graded as PD, peu difficile (slightly difficult). Routes may be longer at altitude, with snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees. Glaciers are more complex, scrambling is harder, climbing may require some belaying, descent may involve rappelling. More objective hazards.

How difficult/challenging is Mera Peak?
Mera is a lot more remote than say Island Peak and takes you through some of the most spectacular scenery with tarn lakes, massive valleys and high passes. It also takes longer to get to and overall the day to day trekking is harder. However unlike other trekking peaks in Nepal, the climb to Mera peak is straight forward. Majority of the climb involves walking in a glacier at a relatively fair degree of steepness with the use of crampons and ice axe. The final section of the climb involves an ascent of snow dome at a 5degree degree angle with the use of ascender/jumar on a fixed rope. Your summit push will begin at 0200-0400 hrs depending on your performance. From Mera high camp to the Mera summit, its a total of 661m climb. Typically, it will involve one long day of 10 to 15 hours to reach a summit. The other issue that comes into play is the altitude given that you are climbing up to a height of 6,476m
What are the tea houses like on the main trail?
Actually there are not as many tea houses on the main trail, and those that are there are not the same standards at on the Everest and Annapurna treks. It is for this reason that we prefer to use tents as we have a greater control over the meals that are served. However we can arrange a teach house trek but be aware standard differ. Where tea houses are better we will use them, e.g. at Khare. The rooms are all generally basic.  There is no heating and electricity is often solar and on only for a few hours in the evening. Rooms have a bed, pillow and a thick blanket a small light."
When is the best time or months to climb Mera Peak?
The best time to visit Mera Peak is either side of the late May to mid-September monsoon season. The autumn months of September, October and November are prime times to climb Mera Peak, with October being the busiest time when conditions are the most stable.  The second most suitable time to attempt Mera Peak is during spring (March to early June)."
Can I charge my camera batteries and mobile phone during the trek?
Yes, you can charge your batteries and mobile phones in every place that has solar panels en route paying extra. The price of charging may vary in different places. It is wise to bring your power bank and also rig up your own solar charger to make use of as there may be days when you cannot charge your devices. Remember that charging is done via solar power so no sun, means no charging
What gear do I need for the climb?
Before setting out we will provide you with a full equipment list. However there are certain basics for all peaks over 6000m. Plastic boots are essential and should be the double boot (with a soft inner and hard plastic shell), as temperatures can drop to below -20C. If you plan on buying these before you leave then make sure you can wear a double layer sock in them with plenty of room for your toes to move. Otherwise you can rent them in Nepal as they are an expensive item to buy or rent from Khare where is will cost less in the long run.

Crampons are worn with the plastic boot as either a strap on or clip on depending on the type. You will use these for the majority of the time you spend on the glacier and summit day. Again, these can be rented.

A climbing harness is the next essential item which you will wear over your trekking pants.


Are there medical facilities en route like there are on Cho La and Everest treks?
No there is not. Mera Peak is a three weeks long journey into the remote and beautiful Hinku valley with practically no health facilities en route. For this reason it is vital that you keep mindful of personal hygiene, avoid meat, stay warm, drink plenty of water and bring your personal first aid kit. We will supply you with a list of items to bring which will include things for Altitude Sickness, diarrhea, headaches, painkiller, bandages, antiseptics, antibiotics etc. The lack of facilities is another very strong reason why travel insurance is required


How will the altitude affect me ?
This is a really difficult one to answer directly - "how will I cope with the altitude". To be honest, this is an ' unknown' factor as no-one can predict how your body will cope at altitude. People, who have been to altitude many times in the past without problems, may on one climb suddenly develop problems. There are many factors that play a role. The only way to help combat this is to take all of the necessary precautions, and walk slowly.
What is the weight limits for the plane to Lukla?
The flights to Lukla have a limit of 10 kilograms per person of checked luggage and 5 kilograms per person in hand luggage.  They weigh all bags and will charge you if your bags are overweight. It is for this reason that it is a good idea to rent your climbing gear in Khara.
Where can I get climbing Insurance for Mera Peak?

If you are going hiking or climbing or trekking then you need extra cover for your activities. Hiking and Climbing have become popular for many adventure seekers looking to add a climb up Kilimanjaro or a trek to Everest Base Camp, Annapurna or even Island Peak to their list of amazing adventures. But any climb to high altitude carries with it a number of risks and having the correct and good trekking insurance is an absolute must. We recommend two different groups depending on which country you reside in. For further details, click here


Which summit do we climb on Mera as I hear there are a few?
Yes there are. Mera peak has 3 summits and the highest is at 6,476m/ 21,246 feet. The three are: Mera North, 6,476 metres (21,247 ft), the one we summit; Mera Central, 6,461 metres (21,198 ft); and Mera South, 6,065 metres (19,898 ft), as well as a smaller "trekking summit", visible as a distinct summit from the south but not marked on most maps of the region.
How fit do I need to be?
You need to be in good physical shape and able to sustain extended periods of hard climbing, as summit day can be up to 12 hours long. You should start training a good 4-6 months prior to the trip with extended periods of cardio workouts and hill walking. Although you will receive training at the peak on using mountaineering equipment, you should also take a course in basic climbing skills so that you are familiar with the rope work before you arrive.  
Why do we need contingency days?
These are built in, in case of bad weather or heavy snow fall that may delay your summit, either from Khare or even up to Mera La or High Camp. If you do not need them you can return to Kathmandu earlier but the cost of the extra days in a hotel will not be covered by the climb cost.
What happens if I cannot continue my climb or have to turn back?
Unfortunately this is something every trekker has to consider.  Anything from a stomach bug to altitude sickness can quickly stop a trekker in their tracks. If you are ill and need to turn back or even too tired to continue,  a porter will walk off the mountain with you and your gear. If you require emergency evacuation, this will be contingent on your insurance cover. It is for this reason that insurance cover for this purpose is mandatory.